What on earth has happened to Kelvingrove? After dark it's lit up like a Christmas tree, and not a tasteful one, either. The reason I ask is that a window table at Blas affords a perfectly-framed view of the museum in all its dubiously lit glory. The owners of Blas, formerly the Museo bar, obviously know an opportunity when they see one, and opened their doors a day after the refurbished Kelvingrove in July.

It's a wise move cashing in on the museum's visitors and providing an alternative to its own cafe and restaurant. Though undoubtedly blessed with Firebird and Cafe India, this area of Glasgow is not the best for good local restaurants, slightly marooned as it is between the city centre and the west end proper, so it's a bonus for locals, too.

On a Friday night, Blas (the name is Gaelic for taste or savour) is pleasantly busy, not hoaching but with just enough buzz. The menu is as reliably Scottish as a Vettriano, with guaranteed crowd-pleasers such as a smoked salmon blini starter (£4.75) and haggis, neeps and tatties main course (£7.50), and a few more adventurous treatments including a haggis millefeuille (£3.75) and Dunsyre Blue and broad-bean risotto (£9.95). There are also platters for sharing (from £4.85 per person), which the menu highlights, and a page detailing the provenance of the ingredients (always a nice touch).

We start with the Ullapool smoked salmon and cream cheese on a home-made buckwheat blini, and the courgette rolls (£3.95), thin slices of marinated courgette stuffed with Ayrshire Bonnet goat's cheese, honey and pine nuts. Both are absolutely delicious - a true example of sticking to simple cooking and letting the quality of the fresh ingredients speak for themselves (Gordon Ramsay would surely approve). Both are also accompanied by salad - not just a couple of pieces of lettuce and a slice of cucumber, but a tasty, well-dressed salad you'd be happy to munch on its own.

The wine list is big enough but not overwhelmingly huge, and I'm pleasantly surprised to discover a favourite I haven't found on a restaurant list before - Simonsig South African Chenin Blanc (£14.95).

For main courses we opt for that Dunsyre Blue risotto (accompanied by more lovely house salad), and the sausage, mash and onion gravy (£6.95). There are no surprises here, but the dishes are well-cooked if a little under-seasoned. To finish there's a choice of three desserts and we manage to squeeze in a small apple crumble apiece (£3.50).

All this is aurally washed down with a relaxing blend of good, honest Scottish folk and some gentle pop. The service, meanwhile, is faultess: friendly and non-intrusive, we never feel rushed. In fact, Blas feels exactly as a local restaurant should. It's reasonably priced and, while the Scottish theme will no doubt attract plenty of tourists and museum visitors, the Kelvinhaugh residents should be make the most of it, too.

There's a slightly pared-down menu available during the day - you'll have to wait until after 6pm for the Skirlie chicken (£11.95) and prime sirloin steak (£13.95) - but there are sandwiches and coffee available for takeaway.

Evenings are surely favourite for enjoying the best of the atmosphere, though, and you can while away a happy couple of hours people-watching along Argyle Street and savouring that, er, rosy glow from across the road.